[[[笨鸟制造]]]木材稳定化实验进阶----之超低价真空容器制造

superdongle

老生常谈之：DIY有两重境界，一是为了做得更好，二是为了更便宜。我重做瑞刀柄是为了做得更好，稳定化处理是为了让木材更好。但是设备很贵啊，毕竟我们还是发展中国家，能省就省嘛，再者家里也实在没地方堆放更多的设备了。

事情已经做到这份上，稳定化处理当然是我不会轻言放弃的事情，我努力的在向着做得更好而奋斗。所以，我弄了专门关于贴片的网站，主要想赚点老外的钱，老外赚咱瑞刀的钱，他们要是喜欢咱的柄，咱在柄上再赚回来。。。国内的刀友需要贴片的话我一定平出，大家可以去看下 http://swissredo.com ，本人曾被称为英语国家的文盲，因为我没读过什么书，我的英语主要是看电影看着看着就学会了。。。所以听说还算顺当，这个读写就比较成问题，英语好的兄弟们帮我查查错，不过网站才把框架搭好，还需要更多的内容。。有什么需要修改的地方请大家多提意见。
好，题外话不多述，切入今天的正题，就是木材稳定化实验的真空设备，买个真空箱，至少得两千好几，真空泵又得几大百。。上次实验后接受万能的刀友的建议，改用高压锅。。于是，几天的准备之下，就出现了这么个玩意儿：




家里的高压锅，我的方案甚至不用对高压锅进行改动，去买了块亚克力板，二十五厘米见方的，八十块钱，号称两厘米厚，实测一点五。现在的厂家数据太可怕了。然后，买了个真空表，挑便宜的，十五块钱。。。。东西不贵，油费加停车费远超其本身价值。所以，有可能的话我更愿意在淘宝上买，就算加十来块钱的运费也划得来。



真空表的接头部分外径是差不多十四，拿到机床上铣个10mm深，14mm直径的圆，再到背面铣个5mm直径5mm深的圆，刚好把亚克力板铣穿，把真空表装上去AB胶糊上。。接下来我会钻另外一个孔来抽真空，买了手动的真空泵，也是便宜货还有单向阀，据说还挺抗干，到了会给大家上照片。

superdongle

看看全貌

superdongle

大概就是这个样子，等抽真空的工具回来我再研究另外一个孔和安装，实在不行我还可以加管路用电动真空泵，也只需要在板上打孔安装。都不需要改动高压锅本身，不会被老婆骂作败家子。。


接下来的几天，我要上一趟高原，要过几天才能回来，要找我的兄弟，请等我回来后再说，非常感谢。

小礼飞刀

呵呵 我早想用 高压锅了   前两天帖子说完后  好像  BBK兄说  真空可以  不过加压的话  高压锅不行  这两天正在找   不锈钢管  想自制容器

wuxjun

期待成功

superdongle

呵呵 我早想用 高压锅了   前两天帖子说完后  好像  BBK兄说  真空可以  不过加压的话  高压锅不行  这两天正在找   不锈钢管  想自制容器
小礼飞刀 发表于 2010-3-8 22:11

这个真空是绝对可以的，我看了不少资料了，加压也不是不可以，再用高压锅的盖子嘛。。。。高压锅本来就是干这个活的，有什么不行？办法都是人想的嘛。。你用不锈钢管我估计效果不一定比高压锅好，想想？

还有，我看了很多很多老外做木材的稳定化处理的，没看到加高压的；只有在木材防腐处理的时候才看到加高压的。

还有就是处理完之后对木材本身进行机械加压的，因为木材防腐处理很多用的木头本身硬度不足，较软，所以尺寸稳定性也不好，所以加压能提高木材的尺寸稳定性。

贴子写到一半，我又查了，在稳定化处理中还是没有看到相关加压的部分

superdongle

刚找到一段同Michael Thompson 发表于1991年3,4月份的《Blade Magazine 》 的一篇文章：ANY WOOD FOR A KNIFE HANDLE， （任何木头用来做刀柄)
#笨鸟注： 主要讲用亚克力树脂来处理软木，让软木也可以用来做刀柄 。

...A nagging problem with some handle materials, especially ivory, horn and wood, is a tendency to shrink and warp because of different humidities in various parts of the country...
...The solution is to stabilize the applicable handle materials so they can't dry out...
...Two-part process requires applying acrylic resins to a handle material followed by a curing period. The result is a water-resistant, harder-than-untreated wood that can be machined and drilled, and that can be polished to any finish you'd put on steel, from satin to a high gloss...
..Before, knifemakers were limited to a few hardwoods when they wanted burled or fancy grained wood handles. Now even soft woods can be stabilized and used as knife handles.
I have a piece of California buckeye that is soft enough that I can dent it 1/8 inch with my thumbnail. After stabilizing it is hard as counter-top material and takes a great polish that was impossible before treatment...
...Spalted maple is one of the more impressive of the soft woods that can be used for knife handles. It's unusual because of the dark streaks that develop as the wood begins to decay, thus the word "spalted". After treatment this otherwise useless wood makes one gorgeous knife handle...
...Various woods react differently to stabilization. Soft woods absorb greater amounts of the chemicals and are consequently more affected by the advantages of the treatment. Box elder burl, a highly figured soft wood, could not be used on a knife handle until the advent of stabilization. Other species like spalted cotton wood, myrtle wood burl, redwood burl, maple burl and pipe briar may now be machined and used for knife handles, including those on interframe folders...
...For some reason the stabilizing chemicals seem to displace the natural oils in cocobolo and a few other hardwoods, including some samples of walnut, which results in the natural oils "weeping" out of the wood for days after the treatment...
...Since stabilized wood repels water and oils, stains, dyed and chemicals will not penetrate wood...
...Stabilization may seem like the answer to most problems associated with wooden knife handles and it often is. But you may not appreciate all of its side effects. I noticed a weight increase of about 20 percent in the wood I had treated. Some woods increase as much as 50 percent in weight if they are soft and absorb a lot of chemicals....
...Ray Applegate carved some figures into the stabilized wood with excellent results. Stabilization eliminated all moisture from the fibers. The result is that all of the wood's natural flexibility and elasticity are removed. Forcing pins through small holes will crack stabilized wood, as will hammering on it. But that same inflexibility is an advantage when dealing with other stabilized materials like horn and ivory. Horn and stag can be straightened with heat, then stabilized so that they will not warp back to their original shapes...
...The natural pores of stabilized woods remain open after treatment. Since no finish is necessary and most knifemakers simply sand the wood to 400 or 600 grit, then buff with jewelry polishing compound, some of the compound may be trapped in the open pores of the wood. If this is a problem, stabilized wood can be filled like any other wood by impregnating the open pores with a quick-setting glue and sanding dust from the wood itself. Fred Roe seals the pores with an acrylic before sanding and buffing...
...Proper sanding and buffing can impart a glossy finish to stabilized wood. But that beautiful polished finish on stabilized wood will dull after prolonged immersion in water. That's why Leon Thompson uses a hand-rubbed satin finish on knives he expects to be used in and around water...
...Stabilized wood will take in moisture by capillary action much like steel wool is waterproof but will absorb water like a sponge. If you put a block of stabilized wood in water, it will become saturated in a few hours. The actual fibers are dry but the spaces will pick up moisture. If you lay the wood on a workbench, the water will leak out overnight and the piece will be dry again tomorrow...
...This is not an exact science. It's more of an art. Some examples to illustrate: a ram's horn that curled even more during treatment, a piece of spalted maple that broke apart, and the odd samples that weep oil. When working with natural organic materials, the innate character of each piece must be considered...
...Highly figured or burled woods tend to warp during treatment. That's why its wise to leave extra material on a piece that is being treated...
...I'm impressed with the possibilities of stabilized materials. Hunting and fishing knife handles can now be made of wood and even horn. Folder scales of exotic wood may now be milled and machined to shape with predictable consistency. No longer will full tang knives have steel extending past the wooden scales after a few years use...
...Stabilized materials should be worked with fresh sanding belts on conventional machinery or with sharp hand files and sandpaper. they require no finish other than sanding or polishing, and possess the endurance of synthetics while retaining the natural beauty of real wood. the treated woods have already been ordered by dozens of custom knifemakers and collectors with reviews ranging from guarded optimism to downright enthusiasm for the product...

母熊

图片拍的很好  期待看下文

superdongle

#笨鸟注：这里还有一篇由Bill Krier 发表于《Wood Magazine》1992年一月的名为：SOMETHING NEW FOR ADVENTUROUS WOODWORKERS, ACRYLIC-IMPREGNATED ，主要讲亚克力树脂对木材的稳定化处理


...Suppose you could take a piece of soft, crumbling wood and make it hard and solid, while retaining all of its natural beauty? What if this stock proved impervious to swelling, checking, and warping? What if it resisted water, and it's colors never faded? Sound impossible? Not anymore! You can perform this "magical feat" with nearly any piece of dried wood through a process called stabilization...
...How stabilization works
The process forces liquid acrylic resins into wood under high pressure. the resins completely impregnate the stock, and then cure...
...for manufacture into knife handles, pistol grips, boat trim, jewelry, a wide variety of turnings, and many other objects...
...What stabilization does to wood
Once stabilized, your stock increases in weight by 20 to 150 percent (porous woods such as spalted maple take on more resin than dense woods such as ebony). It becomes harder, stronger, and will not change shape. The color darkens slightly, similar to the way wood darkens when you apply water to it. Because the acrylic saturated the wood fibers, the pigments in those fibers cannot fade through oxidation...
...What we discovered in our shop tests
During trials in the WOOD magazine shop, we had good success sawing, sanding, and turning various samples of stabilized woods. Because of their hardness our samples of spalted maple, black ash burl, and Australian lace wood required more cutting power and dulled our tools a little more quickly than nonstabilized wood...
...All cutting operations, especially turning, created clouds of fine dust, so be sure to wear an approved respirator while working it...
...You don't have to apply a finish to stabilized woods. You need only sand the work piece with a succession of 100-, 320-, and 400- grit abrasives, and then buff with a compound to bring out a deep sheen. A coat of wax protects the buffed surface...
...We achieved an even shinier surface, though (and one that doesn't require any maintenance), by sanding up to 320-grit paper and applying a water-based finish. Unlike untreated wood, the grain of stabilized wood does not raise when you apply a water-based finish...
...Oil-based finishes also work, but keep in mind that these will add a slight amber cast to the natural appearance of the wood. Stabilized woods do not accept stains, but we can't imagine many circumstances under which you would need to alter the already beautiful look of these woods.

这篇文章里有讲到high pressure，我把high pressure 划了粗线，但我并不真的明白这个高压是讲高的正压还是负压。。

superdongle

#笨鸟注：这里还有一篇由Scott Hirsch 发表于《Woodwind Quarterly》1993年8月的名为：ACRYLIC WOOD STABILIZATION, THE IMMORTAL INSTRUMENT 还是讲亚克力树脂对木材的稳定化处理
...Few commercial secrets are as guarded as wood stabilization. Many companies have spent considerable time trying to develop a successful process to preserve and protect their wood instruments...
...To my knowledge, no process used by an instrument manufacturer is more than partially successful at best. That may soon change. The long search for a method to stabilize wood has recently taken great leaps forward. Methods are now being refined to bestow the following qualities on wood:
Enhancement of grain structure and overall finish and appearance.
Augmentation of sound production by increasing the mass of the instrument. This may include both increase volume and changes in the tone quality.
Preventing the instrument wall from slowly graduating in shape from round to oval, due to irregular grain structure.
Protecting the wood from decomposition in environments that encourage wood destroying organisms.
Forestall the potential for cracking due to the influence of moisture...
Increase the ability of the wood to hold detail such as fine turning and carving.
Allow the use of wood species that are gorgeous, but have previously been considered too unstable for use.
Eliminate the need for periodic refinishing or even applying a finish in the first place.
These attributes may give the maker the opportunity to create a musical masterpiece boasting a life-span measured in centuries. For a number of traditional woodwinds, the ramifications of a process that would do all of the above are nothing less than momentous.
Processes are currently available in the United States and continue to undergo development. Several companies claim to stabilize wood. Some of them are probably using a very unrefined approach, even a simple soaking application. One firm, Wood Stabilizing Specialists, Inc. (WSSI), (formerly in Cedar Falls, IA, now in Ionia where it is now known as Wood Stabilizing Specialists, International) markets perhaps the largest and most sophisticated effort to stabilize woods...they may currently be the best example of a company on the cutting edge in wood stabilization. WSSI specializes in wood but has some experience with bamboo as well.
Their process saturates wood with a special blend of monomers and acrylics. After saturation the mix is catalyzed into polymers, a process that creates long chain molecules. The result is a clear and durable material that has qualities of both acrylic and wood.
No oil or other agent will penetrate an instrument wood blend more than a small part of an inch without supplying pressure to force the material into the wood. WSSI's process is understandably proprietary...
While there are many questions to answer, the potential benefits from applying the process are intriguing.

superdongle

综合上面篇关于亚克力处理木材的文章，我发现这都是二十年前大家主要用这个，而且我们可以看出，亚克力处理的木头，吸湿性很强，不过其稳定性不受影响，干了就没事了。。

jtjwslsq

早上还听老爸说。过去的地主把草用桐油泡完晾干，做的房子可以一辈子不会漏水。桐油老祖宗用了千年了。我试了感觉不要超24小时，效果还是不错的，不影响蛇纹木的花纹。等几天看看，我的泡了2周的蛇纹木会恢复以前的花纹吗。

fr030297

樓主
您用真空話是高壓都可以使的膠滲入裡面
不過滲入的程度有限
我外買了很多穩定化的材料,最多也是滲到表面而已
裡面還是木頭,沒吃到膠水

這個問題正好與我的本科系有點相關,問了一下以前教授這方面的問題
老師告訴我,這很簡單(???),不要說膠了,連臘這種完全排斥水分的東西都可以完全滲進去
也就是說國內外都少了一個重要的環節,沒能把穩定化做好
以致於穩定化以一塊穿心柄厚3cm能做到1.5cm就算成功了
這也是我跟一位國內刀匠聊天時他說,除了沙漠鐵木,紫光檀(非洲黑木)以外, 其他木柄一到美國馬上變型
有位澳洲刀匠來台參加刀展, 來台第一天,刀柄都變形了,要在細打磨才行,趕快趕工

學術界(也就是我的教授拉~~~)說了其中的道理
他說,木頭的組成是纖維素,纖維素上面都是-OH group這種親水基團
把它變化成親脂性的group就可以了,這種技術他們做到不想做
因為這是做植物永久標本的一個步驟.........將材料變質,並用蠟永遠封住,但是老師也說了,要讓臘完全吃進去需要一段時間的訓練才能抓到竅門
這部份,小弟完全沒有在學校有實地操作過的經驗 : (

小弟之道歸知道,可是抓這些技術
比如說我將木頭變質成功了,他能在空氣中撐多久不在吸收空氣中的水分讓我灌入膠水(我再找能幫我灌膠的工廠)
這些都是要嘗試並克服的

樓主我們共勉之
希望能克服這項技術

小丁

superdongle

樓主
您用真空話是高壓都可以使的膠滲入裡面
不過滲入的程度有限
我外買了很多穩定化的材料,最多也是滲到表面而已
裡面還是木頭,沒吃到膠水

這個問題正好與我的本科系有點相關,問了一下以前教授這方面的問題
...
fr030297 发表于 2010-3-8 23:15

非常感谢，大家共同研究。我之前做的实验没吃进去，我还以为是我非常失败，哈，看来也有很多人都没吃进去的嘛。。

bbk

这个真空是绝对可以的，我看了不少资料了，加压也不是不可以，再用高压锅的盖子嘛。。。。高压锅本来就是干这个活的，有什么不行？办法都是人想的嘛。。你用不锈钢管我估计效果不一定比高压锅好，想想？

还有 ...
superdongle 发表于 2010-3-8 22:32

高压锅做真空肯定没问题，高压锅肯定是可以加压但是要看加多大压力，民用和工业用高压是两个概念，厚壁不锈钢管两头焊接法兰盘安全系数肯定比高压锅高。你的精神可嘉希望你能成功，另外你贴的英文技术资料好像没有一篇讲具体技术的，你应该好好找找有没有具体技术方面资料这样可以少走不少弯路，这两天我刚做了一批稳定化的材料。过两天我会贴照片

bbk

樓主
您用真空話是高壓都可以使的膠滲入裡面
不過滲入的程度有限
我外買了很多穩定化的材料,最多也是滲到表面而已
裡面還是木頭,沒吃到膠水

這個問題正好與我的本科系有點相關,問了一下以前教授這方面的問題
...
fr030297 发表于 2010-3-8 23:15

我做过40*40*120MM黄花梨柄料稳定化试验，切成薄片后可以看到完全渗透，过两天我会发照片。

taiga

学习了！
非常有启发性~~
有一个问题，就是经过处理之后的木材，是否还能体现出原来的光泽和质感
如果结果失去了优秀木头的外观特性，就得不偿失了

14# fr030297
學術界(也就是我的教授拉~~~)說了其中的道理
他說,木頭的組成是纖維素,纖維素上面都是-OH group這種親水基團
把它變化成親脂性的group就可以了,這種技術他們做到不想做
因為這是做植物永久標本的一個步驟.........將材料變質,並用蠟永遠封住,但是老師也說了,要讓臘完全吃進去需要一段時間的訓練才能抓到竅門
這部份,小弟完全沒有在學校有實地操作過的經驗 : (

韩尔精工

真是好帖顶一下，刀友们都来学习吧。

superdongle

我做过40*40*120MM黄花梨柄料稳定化试验，切成薄片后可以看到完全渗透，过两天我会发照片。
bbk 发表于 2010-3-9 00:46

BBK兄是前辈，在这方面己经走了很远的路了，我现在唯一能做的就是向前辈们学习。。

当然，我学东西也是抱着大胆假设，小心求证的方法来进行。。个人认为亚克力处理的木头在吸湿性这个问题上不太好，还在就是紫外光稳定性稍差。。。

所以我的主要研究方向是用树脂或是聚氨脂丙烯酸盐的交联产物。。。

另外，我在考虑用大块的木头，顺纤维方向施加较大压力，但这个对实验的木头要求较高，一步一步来吧，先把基本的实验做好再说，和练拳一样，先摹再悟方能进步。