分享一個不錯的網站

wukelvin999

最先是被他的磨刀相關文章吸引
各種刀鋒的介紹
http://backyardbushman.com/?page_id=13
刀鋒要磨到什麼程度-拋光還是"微鋸齒"
http://backyardbushman.com/?page_id=24
理論探討
http://backyardbushman.com/?page_id=25
最喜歡的磨**
http://backyardbushman.com/?page_id=27
磨刀的影片
http://backyardbushman.com/?page_id=68
然後又發現他做的刀，介紹(設計用途/理念)及圖片都非常清楚
設計
http://backyardbushman.com/?page_id=361
各種刀型(點圖片上方的型號可以連結到詳細的說明)
http://backyardbushman.com/?page_id=360
價格還算合理，還提供客戶不少的組合選擇
還有，兒子蠻可愛的，比他老爸帥:icon_mrgreen:
http://backyardbushman.com/?page_id=403
有時間可以慢慢逛逛這個網站, 對DIY應有些幫助

弓神

我连接不上{:4_106:}

弓神

我连接不上{:4_106:}

弓神

看不到  网速不行?

高山人

我也看不到

piandao4x

还得翻墙啊

jiaqi

打不开啊  可惜了

wukelvin999

This first diagram shows a few of the more popular knife grinds.




Scandi

The scandi grind is about as ** as there is to understand. In the world of primary and secondary grinds, things and terminology can get confusing real quick. A scandi grind is **, because there is only one grind, and you are looking at it. It is typically in the range of 12.5 degrees per side, or 25 degrees inclusive. With this being the only grind on the blade, the bevel created is wide and flat.




This grind is typically recommended for beginning bushcrafters because the width of the grind makes it very easy to sharpen. Other thinner grinds can make it harder to determine what the proper sharpening angle is. With the scandi grind, being wide, you can just lay it down, pivot the knife on to the grind, and it becomes obvious that you are holding it at the correct sharpening angle.
This is just my opinion that will continue to pop up multiple places on this site; if you don’t know how to sharpen your knife you have no business using it or carrying it. If you are out in the woods with a dull compound bevel knife and do not have the knowledge to do anything about it, you are in trouble. That is the reason the scandi grind is usually so highly recommended.

While we are on this grind, I want to comment on two more points. One of the most popular and disturbing recommendations that I come across is putting a secondary grind on a knife like this. The recommendation usually goes like this “You can just run it across the Spyderco Sharpmaker (which is 20 degrees per side) and put a secondary bevel on it.” This recommendation just makes me cringe! The WHOLE POINT of the scandi grind is to avoid a secondary grind. If you want a secondary grind, you are much better off going with a different grind all together, like a high flat grind.

Second is the idea of the edge becoming convex with time. Many knife makers claim that over time the scandi grind will become convex through many sharpening sessions. I have no information to support that, but I also have no reason to doubt that the edge will become slightly convex in time. The problem is that I believe that the edge would only become mildly convex and would be very hard to tell with your eye alone. In order to prove that statement, I believe you would need precise measuring instruments. Either way, the point does change a thing for me in terms of the type of grind. I am all about end results in real use.

Hollow

The hollow grind as shown has a concave profile for the main grind. Every hollow ground knife that I have seen has a secondary bevel on it, which is typically a v-grind. The hollow grind is one of the weakest grind types due to less metal being present. The grind is supposed to be good for skinning purposed. I personally do not use them, so I can not comment on them much more than that.




Full Convex

This grind is very much the opposite of the hollow grind. There is no real apparent bevel on this grind. As shown in the diagram, the blade profile is convex with continuous curvature from the spine to the edge. There is no flat area of the blade as with other grinds. The diagram helps to show this.




High Flat

This type of grind is pretty self explanatory and shown in the diagram. The main grind is flat, and ends closer to the spine are of the knife. Where things can get confusing with this type of grind (and a full flat grind) is the secondary bevel. It can be a v-grind, a convex grind, or a compound grind (which is multiple angles of a v-grind closely simulating a convex grind).




People tend to get confused because someone will say that they put a “convex edge” on their knife. It often gets interpreted as a full convex (referenced earlier). Obviously, putting a full convex edge on a high flat ground knife would be very difficult. What they are usually talking about is the secondary bevel has been put on with a convex profile. To see more about doing this, and how to do it, please visit the sharpening area of this website.

Full Flat

Very similar to a high flat grind with the exception that the flat grind goes all the way to the top of the spine. As shown in the diagram, there is no flat section of blade near the spine. The flat grind is a single line from the knife spine down to the secondary bevel. The secondary bevel (similar to the high flat grind) can be a v-grind, convex, or compound also.


圖片貼不上

wukelvin999

Whether or not a manufacturer makes a convex grind, a high flat grind with v-grind secondary, or a hollow grind they generally all have the following two flaws. First, they are generally not sharp enough for my tastes. Second, the finish is usually very rough and “toothy” which is another attribute I do not like for the way I use knives. There are of course exceptions to this, even from high volume production knife makers (it is not hard to find out who they are). I am speaking in general terms here, and in more cases than not, the above statements will be true.

I used to buy a knife and think “well, the manufacturer must know better than I do and there is no way I could improve upon what they have done.” Boy was I wrong. The more I played with my own edges, and the more I am exposed to manufacturing processes and capabilities at work it all makes sense.

Most knife ** companies can not afford to spend a whole lot of time refining the edge they chose for their knife. The reason they chose a particular edge will be discussed more in my Favorite Grinds article. The point being, once the edge geometry is chosen, it is usually refined a certain amount based on manufacturing capabilities, and then things stop there.

It is very rare for me to get a new knife and NOT immediately run it to my belt sander. If I do not like the final grind geometry, I will actually re-grind it a bit. That will take care of the first issue above; not being sharp enough. Keep in mind, you don’t want to really get into doing that unless you understand a little bit about different steels, and what their capabilities SHOULD be. Even if I do like the edge geometry, I will still generally polish the edge using two different leather belts, and two different grades of polishing compounds. That will take care of the second issue above; too rough of a final finish. Why is this important to me?

A toothy edge acts kind of like mini-serrations. They work well for doing things like cutting rope and activities like that where you cut with a slicing motion. However, for most of the stuff that I do, durability and push cutting is more important. When the final edge has a very high polish on it, those mini-serrations are refined until they are very, very small. A highly refined su**ce like this is more capable of cutting it with a pushing motion. The high polish on the edge also makes it more durable. If you take the “toothy” edge for example, and over-exaggerate it, it will look like a saw blade, with big teeth. If you take that and try to chop a log (like you would with an ax), what would you expect to happen. Probably a tooth or two will end up bent and mangled. See my point? Now try to do that with an ax, and you should see no edge damage. Well, the same concept works on a microscopic level. The difference being that on the “toothy” edge, you will probably not see the damage to the teeth, instead you will just know that your edge is dull.

The more punishment that an edge takes, the higher polished it should be. This almost seems counter-intuitive, but it is true. For that reason, all my axes have a mirror like finish on them. It took me quite a while to learn this. I used to sharpen my hand ax with a file and maybe a coarse stone, and figure “hey….it’s an ax…..that is good enough.” After all, it is just going to get beat on, right? Well, since I learned better, my hand ax goes through all the polishing stages and I have noticed great improvements of the performance.

wukelvin999

Essentially, at the scale I am looking at here, when I refer to a v-grind you can easily extend the concept to the scandi grind as well.

For a given knife blade thickness, the following diagram demonstrates the main difference between a convex grind (whether full or partial) and a v-grind.





If you pay any attention to the knife world, you have probably heard before that convex grinds are known for their toughness. The diagram above explains why that is.

Now, there are a lot of variables that can come into play when comparing two seemingly similar knives (although they are not). Those variables could be steel properties, blade thickness, grind angles, etc. Steel properties aside, what my diagram is trying to show the difference between the two grinds, for the same blade thickness.

The actual edge is the portion doing the work. But, it is backed up by the material behind it. If it is thin and narrow, there is a high likelihood of some type of damage occurring……think of an exact-o blade. If there is more metal there, the chance of damage is lessened.

As you move from the knife edge, up towards the top of the page (the red line), look what is going on with the material thickness at that point (green lines and blue lines). Each incremental movement along the red line will result in more metal behind the edge on the convex grind. Pretty **, eh?

Now hopefully you understand why every time you pick up a hard use tool, meant for impacts (such as an ax) that it has this type of grind on it. Also, in an ax, the curvature of the convex edge is what helps the tool take large chips out of wood, rathering than getting stuck and binding. But, axes are a whole different topic all together, and I may address that in the future. But, the point still is the same.

Which is better??? Well, that depends on your purpose, I guess. I know for overall use, I have my favorites. You can read all about that in my Favorite Grinds article.

還是少一張圖示

wukelvin999

Favorite Grinds***WARNING – Highly opinionated article! On the rest of the knife topics, I have tried to stick mostly to the facts, with a little interjection now and then. Now that I am writing a topic about “my favorite” it is obviously going to be highly opinionated. This is a highly personal choice, and if you have another one, and it is based on good reason, and it works for you, then that is great. But, it is not likely to change my opinion…..so here it is : )

Of all the grinds explained in my Knife Grinds Explained article, I of course have favorites. I have also described in my Grind Finish article that I prefer to keep a very high polish on all my edges. With that in mind, here is the criteria that I base my judgment for “Favorite Grind” on: Edge strength, cutting ability (very subjective), and ease of field servicing. So, let’s look at each of these one at a time.

***Please keep in mind that there are other factors, such as steel properties, that could affect any one of these. It is easily possible to come to different conclusions on different knives, but it could attributed to something else, and not the grind. So, this is assuming that all other factors are equal.

Field sharpening

The scandi grind is extremely easy to field sharpen. The large wide bevel gives you positive identification of when you are at the proper sharpening angle. This is true whether you are just stropping on leather, or doing more material removal with stones. It doesn’t get much easier than this one.

The convex grind is also fairly ** to field sharpen. If leather stropping with compound is enough (which it usually is) doing so on a convex grind is pretty ** and easy. Even on extended stays, I have not had to do more than that in the field. If more material removal is required, I carry a small set of water stones for this purpose. It is fairly easy to do, but does require more skill than the scandi grind. If carrying water stones seem like overkill, you are half correct. I have not had to use them on my knives, but I definitely use them on my ax. I am picky for having a sharp, high polished ax edge. Since it receive more punishment than a 4-5” knife, it is much more likely to require sharpening. Since the concept is the same for both the ax and convex grind knife, my water stone kit is technically for either.

Stropping a v-grind is also a fairly ** thing to do. If you are required to switch over to stones of a sort that getting the proper angle requires much more practice than a ** grind like a scandi. I hear a lot of people say v-grinds are easy to maintain, and they just use so-and-so diamond stone. Well, that is fine I guess, but that just doesn’t cut it for me. I am way to picky for that. I guess the good thing is that whatever you do in the field, you can undo when you get home and have more time.

Edge Strength

In my article on Grind Dynamics, I already showed why the convex grind is the strongest grind. If you don’t buy the concepts in my articles, there are many other sources of information on the topic, if you are willing to search around a bit.

Cutting ability

This is an area that is highly subjective. But, I will say that the one factor that seems to improve that cutting ability (for my type of use) more than any other is ** sure to have a high polish on the edge. There is more about that in my article on Grind Finish. Since there are so many variables and opinions on cutting ability, I am not going to go into more detail. I just wanted it known that it is taken into consideration when choosing what my favorite type of grind is.

Okay….so I have said all this stuff, which is my favorite. Well, convex in general is my favorite to use. A well manufactured full convex is my overall favorite. If that is not available, I also like using either a high-flat grind, or a full-flat grind with a convex secondary bevel. In every knife that matches that description (of mine) I have put that secondary grind on it. My next choice is scandi grind, followed by the v-grind.

Now, if you have used a convex grind in the past, and have not liked it, don’t rule it out just yet. There are many variables that go into ** a good full convex grind, and they are not all created equal. As you can imagine, you could have a knife with essentially straight sides leading into a small radius curvature at the end, resulting in the edge. While this profile might be tough, it is unlikely to be very sharp. Plus, when doing a lot of tasks, the side of the blade would contact the material being cut before the actual edge does. This would cause you to hold the knife at non-intuitive angles to cut anything.

On the other extreme, that same knife could have a very large radius of curvature resulting in an almost imperceptible convex edge. This one is more likely to be sharp and behave in a manner that you would be more accustomed to.

Much like changing the sharpening angle of the v-grind, changing the profile of the convex grind has a huge impact on the performance. This profile is something that is going to be mostly under the control of the manufacturer (unless you really want to get into grinding). My main point here is that if you have used one or two convex grinds, and did not like them (I was that way once) there are many variables that can come into play that could change the performance more to your liking. If you don’t want to go out and buy 100 knives to experiment (like me) then the best thing to do, is find a resident knife nut, and play with some toys. If they are really into it, it will be fun for them as well.

One final thought on knife grinds. If you are paying attention, you are probably asking yourself “So…..if this guy who claims to know show much about knives, claims that v-grinds are his least favorite of the bunch…..why the heck are v-grinds the most widely manufactured.” That one is easy and it comes down to manufacturing process. How hard to you think it is to grind down metal at a fixed angle? Very **, fast and easy. How hard do you think it is to understand the art of creating the perfect convex profile, and then putting that into a high volume manufacturing process? Not so easy…..

wukelvin999

About My Knife Designs

I really don’t consider any of my designs “original.” Over the past few years, I have owned, and ground on literally thousands of knives from other manufactures. I know what I like in a knife, and if there is a particular feature of one that bugs me, it gets set aside. If it sits too long, it gets sold because I know I won’t use it. That being said, I only really own a small handful of knives these days!


Having handled so many knives is how I have come up with my own designs. I will like the blade shape of one knife, the handle shape of another, the butt of another and the grind on yet another one. I tend to combine things that I like to come up with I consider the perfect knife, for its intended usage.


Above all, my knives always have the following 3 features in common:

- Square spine. Whether it is a bushcraft knife, or a hunting knife, I believe the knife should be capable of striking a firesteel in an emergency. Sure there are separate strikers and all that, but in my opinion that is just another bit of gear to have to remember. Most people are very conscious of where their knife is, and are less likely to lose it than a tiny bit of hacksaw blade or other striker. A good knife and a firesteel will go a long way.

- Handle shape. Once you get the hair popping edge out of the way, a comfortable handle is the most important aspect of the knife. During just casual cutting, almost any handle shape will do. Use it for an extended period, and you will become a fan of my handle design.

- Grind. Every knife style has a different intended final use. You will not see me put a scandi grind on everything, or convex everything! I try to match the grind geometry with the intended use of the knife. In some cases, I will do multiple grinds on the same style of knife.

- Hair Poppin Sharp! Toothy edge my ass. When I hear a custom maker say they prefer a toothy edge, it makes me wonder if they should even be ** knives in the first place. To me, toothy edge means “too lazy to but a good edge on.” To me, the biggest reason to by a custom knife over a production knife is to have the things done that are not possible with “mass production.” That includes, a highly polished, durable, and screaming sharp edge.

youtube 的磨刀影片我就不再貼連結了